Athens is a sprawling, sun-bleached city where ancient ruins sit amid working-class neighborhoods. The Acropolis is visible from most rooftops, and the streets below mix marble paths, graffiti, and outdoor cafés. It is louder, dustier, and more alive than most European capitals.
When to go
- Spring
- Mild temperatures, low 20s Celsius, and wildflowers on the hills. Hotels are cheaper than summer, and sights are open but not crowded. The city feels fresh before the heat arrives.
- Summer
- Hot and dry, with July and August temperatures often above 35°C. Many Athenians leave for the islands in August, so some shops close. Prices peak, and queues at the Acropolis can be long. Early mornings or evenings are the only comfortable time to sightsee.
- Autumn
- Warm through October, then cooler. September still feels like summer, but crowds thin. This is the season we would pick for a balance of pleasant weather and open sites.
- Winter
- Mild, wet, and grey, with temperatures around 10–15°C. Flights and hotels are cheapest, but outdoor sites have shorter hours and the Acropolis can close for rain. Good for museums and tavernas, less for walking the archaeological sites.
Getting your bearings
The centre is Syntagma Square, with the Greek Parliament on its east side. The Acropolis is about 800 metres south-west of the square, and the old district of Plaka lies on its northern slope. Monastiraki and its flea market are west of Plaka, and Psiri is north-west of Monastiraki. Kolonaki, an upmarket shopping area, is north-east of Syntagma. The National Archaeological Museum is north of the centre, a 20-minute walk from Monastiraki. Most sites and museums are within a 30-minute walk of Syntagma.
Getting around
The metro has three lines and is clean and frequent. Single tickets cost €1.20 and are valid for 90 minutes on metro, tram, and bus, with transfers. A 24-hour ticket costs €4.10. Walking is often faster than driving or taking the bus within the historical centre. Collective taxis have fixed prices for common routes, and taxis are plentiful. Buses and trolleys go where the metro does not, including the coast.
Where to stay
- Plaka
- The oldest quarter, straddling the foot of the Acropolis. Narrow lanes of neoclassical houses now hold souvenir shops and tavernas. It is pretty but crowded; staying here puts you steps from the Parthenon and the Acropolis Museum, but expect noise until midnight.
- Monastiraki
- A market district squeezed between the ancient Agora and Psiri. The Sunday flea market fills Adrianou Street and the squares with rugs, old furniture, and all sorts of used goods. By day it is chaotic and loud; in the evening the area empties of shoppers and taverna tables take over the cobbled lanes.
- Psiri
- A gritty, converted warehouse area north of Monastiraki. Street art covers every wall, and the alleys are packed with bars, small meze places, and live music venues. It is lively and bohemian, but not pretty; the energy stops around 2am.
- Syntagma
- The business and hotel centre, centred on Syntagma Square and the Greek Parliament. Grand 19th-century buildings mix with glass office blocks. It is a convenient base for first-time visitors because of metro access and airport connections, but the streets are less characterful than the old quarters.
- Koukaki
- A set of quiet, residential streets south of the Acropolis. The pedestrian walkway up to the site runs through the edge of the district, and there are good bars and small restaurants dotted among the apartment blocks. It is a calmer base than Plaka or Psiri, with the Acropolis museum within walking distance.
A day here
The classic ancient Athens day
- AcropolisStart when it opens at 8:00. Two hours covers the Parthenon, the Erechtheion, and the views. Entry is €20 in summer, cheaper in winter. The queue grows by 9:00, so be early.
- Acropolis MuseumA 10-minute walk downhill. The top floor reconstructs the Parthenon frieze, and the glass floors show the excavation below. Expect to spend an hour and a half. Admission €10. It is busy from noon, so this is the right time before lunch.
- Plaka lunchPick a taverna on a pedestrian street rather than in the main square. Greek salad, grilled octopus, and house wine will cost about €15–20 per person. The area is crowded at this hour; a quieter choice is a street off Adrianou.
- Ancient AgoraA 10-minute walk northwest through Monastiraki. The Temple of Hephaistos is the best-preserved Greek temple anywhere. If you have the five-day combined ticket, this is covered; otherwise it is €10. Allow 90 minutes, and bring water.
- Lycabettus HillWalk or take the funicular from Kolonaki in the late afternoon. The climb takes 30 minutes; the funicular costs €10 return. The top has a restaurant and a café. Arrive an hour before sunset to get a spot at the rail, and bring a layer for the wind.
Eating
- Souvlaki and gyros
- Pork or chicken skewers, or shaved meat wrapped in a warm pita with tomato, onion, and tzatziki. Street stands and small shops sell them for around €3 to €4. The best way to start is at a shop where you see locals eating with a fork and knife inside.
- Greek salad
- The real version has no lettuce. It is chopped tomato, cucumber, feta, olives, and a slice of onion, dressed with olive oil and oregano. You will be served this everywhere, and the quality varies with the tomatoes. Eat it in summer, and ask for a village salad instead — it comes with a piece of bread to mop up the juice.
- Varvakios Central Market
- The meat and fish market on Athinas Street, a 10-minute walk from Monastiraki. Butchers hang whole animals and fish glisten on ice. Around the edges are spice sellers and a few no-frills tavernas where you can order a simple meal at plastic tables. Go early in the morning, before the heat and the flies.
- Tavernas
- Small, often family-run places that serve a changing list of dishes from a glass counter or a tray. The standard order is a few plates to share: fava, zucchini fritters, meatballs, grilled sardines. Avoid the ones with a waiter standing by the door waving menus; a full inside of locals is the better signal.
- Meze and ouzo
- A spread of small plates — olives, cheese, octopus, and vegetable stews — meant to be eaten slowly with wine or ouzo. In Psiri and Exarchia, meze bars open in the evening and fill with noise. The point is conversation and grazing, not a full meal.
- Koulouri
- A circular sesame bread, the classic street snack in Athens. Vendors sell it from metal carts near metro stops for 30 cents. It is dry and plain, good with a coffee. Buy one on your way to the Acropolis.
Practical
- Money
- Greece uses the euro. A souvlaki costs €3, a meal in a taverna with wine €20–25, a metro ticket €1.20, and a ticket to the Acropolis €20. Budget around €60–80 per day for a mid-range trip.
- Transport
- The metro connects the airport to the centre via line 3; a one-way airport ticket costs €9. City transport shares one ticket: €1.20 for 90 minutes, €4.10 for 24 hours. Taxis are cheap relative to western Europe, but surcharges apply at night. Walking covers the old town easily.
- Safety
- Athens is safe for most travellers. Pickpockets work the crowded metro and the Monastiraki market in daylight. Exarchia looks tougher than it is. Keep valuables close on the metro and avoid deserted side streets after midnight.
- Opening hours
- Archaeological sites open at 8:00 and close in the evening; many state museums close on Mondays. Shops in the centre are open 9:00–21:00 on weekdays, and many close on Sundays. In summer, expect siesta hours in some neighbourhood shops.
- Seasons
- High season is June to September. The best months are April, May, and October, when it is warm but not scorching. Winter is short, and late December to early January is still pleasant enough for sightseeing.
Worth knowing
- Wear non-slip shoes; marble steps are polished and dangerous after rain.
- The combined ticket for the Acropolis and six other sites costs about €30 and is valid for five days.
- Carry small change for the metro ticket machines; they accept coins and cards but not old notes.
- The city is hilly and hot in summer; carry water and plan midday breaks.
- Sunday is the quietest day in the centre, with fewer shops open but also fewer crowds.
Questions
- How many days do I need in Athens?
- Three full days give you the main archaeological sites, the museums, and a walk through Plaka and Psiri. With five days, you can add day trips to the coast, Delphi, or the Saronic islands.
- Is Athens expensive?
- It is cheaper than London, Paris, or Rome. A meal in a mid-range restaurant costs €20–25, a metro ticket €1.20, and a budget hotel room around €70 a night in high season. The Acropolis ticket at €20 is the single biggest expense.
- Is Athens walkable?
- Yes for the historical centre. The Acropolis, Plaka, Monastiraki, and the Agora are within a 20-minute walk of each other. For longer distances, the metro is efficient and cheap.
- Do people speak English?
- Yes, widely. Most people under 45 and everyone working in tourism speak at least basic English. Street signs are in Greek letters, but the metro signs also show English transliterations.
- Is Athens safe at night?
- Mostly yes. Tourist areas like Plaka and Syntagma are lively and there are many people around late. Stay aware in Monastiraki and on the metro; pickpocketing is the main risk. Exarchia can be edgy but incidents are rare.
- Is Athens worth it in winter?
- Yes, for a different reason. Winter runs from December to February and brings rain and grey skies, but the sites are far less crowded and hotel prices drop by a third. The Acropolis can close in heavy rain, so plan museum time as a backup.
- Is the Acropolis too touristy?
- It is, at midday in high season. But it is also one of the great archaeological sites of Europe. Go when it opens at 8:00 or after 17:00 in summer, and the queues and heat are manageable.