Edinburgh is a small city of steep streets and grey stone where the medieval Old Town and the Georgian New Town sit side by side. The castle stands on a rock above the centre, and the sea is a short walk downhill. The weather is changeable and summer crowds are heavy, but the city rewards walking.

When to go

Spring (March to May)
Late spring is one of the best times to visit: long evenings, green parks, flowers, and moderate crowds. Early spring can still be rainy and cold. Prices are lower than summer.
Summer (June to August)
The warmest and lightest season, but the Festival fills August with performances, queues, and higher prices. July is quieter and still mild. Accommodation needs booking months ahead.
Autumn (September to October)
Often dry and settled, with golden light and fewer visitors. This is the season to pick if you want mild weather and sane crowds. October half-term brings a short busy stretch.
Winter (November to February)
Cold, dark and wet, with about seven hours of daylight in December. The Christmas market and Hogmanay street party bring two weeks of crowds. January and February are quiet and gloomy.

Getting your bearings

Edinburgh's centre sits on a line of hills. The Old Town runs downhill along the Royal Mile from the Castle at the west end to the Palace of Holyroodhouse at the east. North of that lies the New Town, a grid of Georgian streets separated from the Old Town by Princes Street Gardens. The two centres are about a 10-minute walk apart. The university and the Meadows park lie south of the Old Town; Calton Hill and Holyrood Park are to the east. You can walk from one end of the historic centre to the other in roughly 30 minutes.

Getting around

Walking is the main way to get around in the centre; the hills are steep but distances are short. Buses and trams are run by Lothian and the single fare is £2, with a day ticket costing about £5. Pay by contactless when you board. The bus network reaches every suburb and the tram runs from the airport to the city centre.

Where to stay

Old Town
The tourist corridor: the Royal Mile, the castle, narrow closes, and most of the nightlife. Atmospheric but loud and expensive. Staying here puts you in the middle of the action, for good and bad.
New Town
The Georgian grid north of the gardens. Wide streets, grand stone terraces, shops on George Street and calm at night. The best balance of convenience and quiet.
Stockbridge
A well-off village suburb a 15-minute walk north of the New Town, along the Water of Leith. Independent shops, cafes, and a Saturday market. You will walk or bus into the main sights.
Leith
The old port down the hill to the north-east. Lively restaurant and pub strip along Leith Walk and the Shore. Less touristy and cheaper, but a 30-minute bus or tram ride to the castle.
Southside
The student and residential area around the Meadows, a large grassy park. Guesthouses and budget hotels here are cheaper, and Arthur's Seat is on the doorstep.

A day here

A walking day from Castle to hill

  1. Edinburgh CastleStart at the top of the Royal Mile at 9:30, when it opens. Allow two hours. Admission is about £20 online and slightly more at the gate. The interior rooms are average; the ramparts give the best view over the city.
  2. Royal Mile and a closeWalk downhill and turn into a close before the High Street, such as Advocate's Close. This is where the old city texture shows. Twenty minutes at a slow pace.
  3. St Giles' CathedralStop at the High Kirk. Entry is free, a donation of £5 is suggested. Ten minutes is enough. The stained glass and orderly rows of chairs are worth a look.
  4. Palace of HolyroodhouseThe royal palace at the foot of the Royal Mile. The admission fee is about £18 and the audio tour takes an hour. If the queue is long, skip it and walk up Arthur's Seat instead.
  5. Arthur's SeatClimb the hill in Holyrood Park behind the palace. The walk takes 40 minutes and costs nothing. At the top you get the full city panorama plus the sea. The path is rocky and exposed.
  6. Dinner in the GrassmarketEnd in the Grassmarket, the square below the south side of the castle. Pub food costs £12 to £18 and no booking is needed on a weekday. The view up to the castle is your company.

Eating

Scotch pie
A hot pastry shell with minced mutton or beef, sold in bakeries and newsagents for about £2. The fastest cheap meal in the city.
Fish and chips
Any chippy will do. Ask for salt and sauce, where the sauce is a brown chippy sauce, not ketchup. Expect to pay £8 to £10.
Haggis, neeps and tatties
Now on most pub menus. It is a spiced sheep's offal pudding served with mashed turnip and potato, a standard dish rather than a tourist stunt. Around £11 to £14.
Full Scottish breakfast
A cooked breakfast in a cafe adds lorne sausage and tattie scone to the usual bacon and eggs. Count on £10 for the full plate.
Farmers' Market
Held every Saturday on Castle Terrace, near the castle. Stalls sell local cheese, bread, pies and coffee. A good place for lunch and groceries.
Soup and bread
Most pubs and cafes serve a bowl of soup with bread for £6 to £7. The safest cheap lunch in the city.
Indian curry
On the Southside there is a cluster of South Asian restaurants around the university area. A main dish costs £10 to £15 and is rarely a letdown.

Practical

Money
The currency is the pound sterling. Cards are accepted almost everywhere and many places do not take cash at all. A contactless phone or card is enough for a weekend.
Transport
Lothian buses and trams share the same ticket system. A single ride is £2, a day ticket about £5. Pay by contactless when you board. The tram runs from the airport to the city centre.
Safety
Edinburgh is safe for visitors. Watch your bags in crowded areas and on the Royal Mile. The main practical risks are wet pavements and gulls that try to take food from your hand.
Opening hours
Shops open around 9 or 10 and close by 6, with late opening on Thursday. Museums and galleries open at 10 and close at 5 or 6; many smaller ones close on Mondays. Edinburgh Castle opens at 9:30, closing at 6 in summer and 5 in winter. Most pubs close by 23 or midnight.
Seasons
Summer runs from June to September, with long, mild days. August is dominated by the Festival. December has Christmas markets and Hogmanay but is dark and cold. Spring and autumn are quieter with changeable weather.

Worth knowing

  • The weather changes within an hour. Carry a waterproof even on a clear morning.
  • Book Edinburgh Castle tickets online in advance; the gate queue can add 30 minutes.
  • Many smaller museums are closed on Mondays. Check your day.
  • Calton Hill costs nothing and has a better view than the Castle ramparts.
  • The Festival in August turns the city dense and noisy. If that is not your aim, come in May or September.

Questions

How many days should I spend in Edinburgh?
Two full days cover the City Centre, Castle, and a hill. Four days give you time for Leith, Stockbridge, and the National Museum without rushing.
Is Edinburgh expensive?
A hostel bed costs £30 to £40, a pub meal around £12, and a museum entry often nothing. Hotels in the centre run £120 to £200 a night outside high season.
Do I need a car in Edinburgh?
No. The centre is walkable, parking is expensive, and the tram and buses reach the airport and suburbs. A car is a liability in the Old Town.
Is Edinburgh safe at night?
The central streets stay busy and well lit until late. Use normal city care in the empty closes and around the bus station after midnight.
Can I use the same ticket for buses and trams?
Yes. Lothian day tickets cover both. Contactless payments are capped at the daily rate across buses and trams.
What is the best area to stay in?
The New Town gives the best balance of quiet, convenience, and short walks to the Old Town. The Old Town is livelier and noisier. Leith is cheaper but further out.
Is Edinburgh worth visiting in winter?
The Christmas market and the Hogmanay street party are real draws, but you get only seven hours of daylight and cold, wet weather. Any other season is more comfortable.