Florence is a compact city of medieval streets on the Arno, where the core of what most visitors want is packed into a 20-minute walk. It feels less like a museum and more like a place where a thousand-year-old argument between beauty and ordinary living is still going on.
When to go
- Spring
- Mild weather between April and June, with rain in April. The crowds are already large but not suffocating. Prices are high, but gardens and city squares are at their best.
- Summer
- July and August are hot, humid, and packed. Queues for the Uffizi stretch out the door most days. Prices peak. Many Florentines leave in August, which empties some restaurants but does nothing for the tourists.
- Autumn
- Late September and October bring warm, still days, lighter crowds, and better light for walking. The tourist flow is half the summer volume. Hotels drop from their summer peak.
- Winter
- Cloudy and cold from December through February. The city loses most of its queues, but many small museums and churches keep odd hours. Hotel prices fall a third. If you don't mind brisk mornings, it's a good season for someone who likes spaces without people.
Getting your bearings
The Arno River splits Florence north and south. The historic center sits on the north bank, with the cathedral at its middle. From the Duomo to the Uffizi is a 5-minute walk, to the Santa Croce church is 10 minutes, to the train station is 15 minutes across the San Lorenzo market. The Oltrarno district lies across the river, with the Pitti Palace and the Boboli Gardens at its base; that climb is a 15-minute walk from the Uffizi.
Getting around
Walking is faster than any vehicle for most trips in the center. The public buses and two tram lines serve the outskirts and the hills above Oltrarno. Buy a single ticket for €1.50 from a tobacconist or the official app; it is valid for 90 minutes. The tram from the airport to the station uses the same ticket, with the machine at the stop in the arrivals hall. Taxis are metered, but only needed for routes with luggage.
Where to stay
- Duomo–San Lorenzo
- The tourist center. The cathedral and baptistery are on the same square, and San Lorenzo market runs between it and the station. Good for a short stay, as most sights are steps away. Expect noise and souvenir stalls.
- Santa Croce
- A quarter east of the Duomo, anchored by the huge stone church of Santa Croce. The main road is busy, but the side streets hold leather workshops and quiet trattorias. Staying here is a good compromise between central and lived-in.
- Oltrarno–Santo Spirito
- South of the river, facing the Pitti Palace. The basilica of Santo Spirito and its square form a daily market and a lively evening scene. Artisan workshops line the alleys. It is the best base for calm, and everything is still a 15-minute walk away.
- San Frediano
- The western strip of Oltrarno, behind the Santo Spirito district. It is residential, less polished, and full of independent shops. The area has a late-evening crowd of students from the surrounding streets.
- Santa Maria Novella
- Around the central station. Utilitarian and practical, good for an early train or taking a day trip from Florence. It is not beautiful, but it will save time and money.
A day here
Museums in the morning, garden in the afternoon
- Uffizi GalleryBook the first entry slot, which starts at 8:15 or 8:30. The gallery is empty for the first hour. Allow two hours. The standard adult ticket is €25, including the booking fee.
- Coffee at a bar on Via de' NeriFive minutes from the Uffizi, this bar does a fast cappuccino at €1.50 for counter service. Tables double the price and involve waiting. Drink it standing like the tradespeople.
- Ponte VecchioCross the bridge at 10:00 to see the river. It is the only bridge in Florence without a modern view of the others, and the best time is early before the tour groups fill it. The jewelry windows are not the point.
- Mercato CentraleA market hall at the edge of San Lorenzo. The ground floor holds fruit, meat and pasta; the upstairs is a food hall with counters for cooking. A sandwich and a glass of wine run about €10. Plenty of seating, open all day.
- Boboli GardensThe back garden of the Pitti Palace. The entrance is behind the palace, a 15-minute walk from San Lorenzo. Allow 1.5 hours. Entry is €12. The climb to the top terrace gives the best view of central Florence.
- Aperitivo in Santo SpiritoAt 18:00, bars around the square set out food buffets for the price of a drink. A spritz costs €6–8. Locals fill the square, and the church steps become a bench. It winds down around 21:00.
Eating
- Lampredotto
- A boiled cow's stomach sandwich with hot sauce and parsley. Sold from street carts and a few stalls in the Mercato Centrale. Cheap, filling, and Florentine.
- Bistecca alla Fiorentina
- A T-bone steak cut thick and cooked over wood. Served by weight, usually €45–50 per kilogram, and meant for two or more people. Rarely a good order at a tourist place.
- Ribollita
- A bean, cabbage and bread soup that thickens overnight. You find it on the 'primo' section of any trattoria menu. The versions vary; the one with the most cheese is usually the one you want.
- Mercato Centrale
- A food hall where you can eat all day. Try the tripe sandwich, the fried zucchini blossoms, and a glass of Chianti. Prices are moderate for central Florence.
- Coccoli
- Fried dough balls, served with ham and soft cheese. It appears as a starter in most trattorias. One portion is enough for two.
- Gelato
- Look for shops where the pistachio is pale green and the chocolate is the color of dark coffee. Bright colors mean artificial flavor. A two-scoop cone costs €4–6 in the center.
- Cantuccini with Vin Santo
- Almond biscuits made twice-baked and dipped in dessert wine. A standard way to end a meal. Usually €4–5 for a handful with a glass.
Practical
- Money
- The currency is the euro. Cards are accepted in most restaurants and museums, but many market stalls and coffee bars only take cash. Use the ATM at the airport once and skip the exchange desks.
- Transport
- The tram T2 links the airport to the central station; a single ticket costs €1.50 from the machine at the airport stop. Buses and trams share the same ticket in the city. Buy tickets before boarding at a tobacco shop or in the official bus app. A taxi from the airport to the center costs about €25.
- Safety
- Pickpocketing is the one real risk, mostly in crowded squares and buses. Keep valuables in a front pocket. The streets are well lit after dark, but the area around the station has some drunks. Nothing else.
- Opening hours
- Churches typically open 08:00–12:00 and 15:00–17:00. Museums close one day a week, often Monday. The Uffizi and Accademia require an online reservation in summer. Shops close for a midday break between 13:00 and 15:30 in the center.
- Seasons
- Spring and autumn are the best: warm, not overcrowded, and the light is nice. July and August are hot and crowded. November is rainy. January and February are cold but quiet and far cheaper.
Worth knowing
- The Uffizi and Accademia sell out on busy days; reserve online at least a few days ahead.
- Most churches ask you not to enter with bare shoulders or shorts above the knee.
- The public water fountains are safe to drink and marked 'aqua potabile'.
- Many streets in the center are made of stone, and rain makes them slick, especially over river bridges.
- Banks and some shops close for an hour or more at midday, so a 13:00 lunch works better than a 14:30 one.
Questions
- How many days should I spend in Florence?
- Give it at least three full days. You can see the two big galleries and the bridge in one day, but the city rewards a slower pace. A fourth day lets you take a day trip to Fiesole or the Tuscan countryside.
- Is Florence expensive to visit?
- It is not cheap. A sit-down meal costs €20–30, and a hotel in the center is €150–200 a night in summer. But a panino from a shop costs €7, and entry to the Duomo (outside of the dome climb) is free.
- Is Florence a walkable city?
- Entirely walkable. The historic center is about 700 meters across, and the main sights are within a 15-minute walk of the Duomo. Most visitors never use public transport at all except to get to the hills.
- Do people speak English in Florence?
- In the tourist trades, yes. Waiters, shops and museums all have English speakers. Outside the center, signs are Italian, and a few phrases help. But you can get by without Italian.
- Is it safe at night in Florence?
- The center is quiet and busy until midnight. The train station area is less pleasant after 22:00. Use the same caution you would in any city, and keep your wallet at the front.
- Is Florence worth visiting in winter?
- It can be a good trip. The weather is cold, but queues disappear and hotel prices drop roughly a third. Some small museums close for a week in January, so check lists before you buy.