Hanoi is a city of motorbikes, narrow alleys, and lakes, where French colonial buildings sit beside temples from the 11th century. The streets are loud and green, and much of daily life happens on the sidewalk at low plastic tables. It is a capital of eating early, crossing traffic steadily, and staying in the shade at midday.
When to go
- Spring (February–April)
- Warm and humid, with light drizzle. Trees along the lakes turn green and the tourist crowds are moderate. Prices are normal. Bring a light rain jacket.
- Summer (May–August)
- Hot and rainy, with heavy downpours in the late afternoon. Foreign visitor numbers drop and some hotels are cheaper. Air-conditioned museums are the best escape from the heat.
- Autumn (September–November)
- The best season: cool mornings, dry air, and clear light. Streets are busy but not overwhelming, prices stay normal, and the city looks its best. If you can choose, come now.
- Winter (December–February)
- Cold by local standards, around 13–18°C. It is grey and often drizzly, but the rain is light. Hotel prices drop and there are fewer tourists. It is still a fine time for museums and street food.
Getting your bearings
The centre is Hoan Kiem Lake, a small blue lake crossed by a red bridge to Ngoc Son Temple. The Old Quarter lies north and west of the lake, a grid of narrow streets where each street once sold one product. The French Quarter is south and east, with wide tree-lined boulevards and white colonial villas. Ba Dinh district, with the Ho Chi Minh Mausoleum, is about 2.5 km west. Most visitor sites are within a 30–40 minute walk of the lake.
Getting around
The Old Quarter and the lake area are best done on foot; walking is often faster than sitting in traffic. For longer trips, use the Grab app for a car or motorbike taxi; a ride across the central districts costs 50,000–100,000 dong. Xanh SM is a reliable electric taxi app. Public buses are cheap (about 7,000–10,000 dong) but hard to follow. The metro has two lines, but they serve the suburbs more than the old town.
Where to stay
- Hoan Kiem and the Old Quarter
- The tourist centre and the liveliest part of the city. Shop houses now sell clothes, coffee, and souvenirs. Staying here is convenient but often noisy, and room prices are at their highest.
- The French Quarter
- Colonial-era streets, the Opera House, and wide boulevards. Quieter than the Old Quarter, with more upmarket hotels and restaurants. A 15–20 minute walk from the lake.
- Ba Dinh
- The government district, with the Ho Chi Minh Mausoleum and the Presidential Palace. It is green and busy during the day, but quiet at night. A calm base if you do not need nightlife nearby.
- Tay Ho (West Lake)
- A large lake northwest of the centre, popular with expats. It has the city's best international restaurants and cafes. Good for a long stay, but you will need a taxi to reach the Old Quarter.
- Dong Da
- A dense local district south of the old centre, near the university. Cheap rooms and some of the best street food in Hanoi, with few tourist attractions. Gives an unhurried view of everyday life.
A day here
A day of temples, history, and street food
- Hoan Kiem Lake at dawnWalk the loop before 7.00. Locals exercise and the lake is calm. Free, 30–40 minutes. By 8.30 the promenade is busy with work traffic.
- Ngoc Son TempleCross the red Huc Bridge to the small temple on an island. Entry about 30,000 dong, 20–30 minutes. Go at opening (8.00) to avoid tour groups.
- Vietnamese Women's MuseumA museum of women's lives, work, and wartime roles with clear English labels. About 40,000 dong, allow 90 minutes. It is quiet in the late morning.
- Temple of LiteratureVietnam's oldest university, founded in 1070. Courtyards and carved stone stelae. Entry about 30,000 dong, take an hour. The main path gets crowded; the side gardens are empty.
- Hoa Lo PrisonA French-built prison used during the American war. The exhibit is compact and worth the stop. Entry about 30,000 dong, 60 minutes. A 15-minute walk from the lake.
- Old Quarter bia hoiFind a corner stall selling fresh draught beer for 5,000–10,000 dong. Sit on a plastic stool, order a plate of fried tofu, and watch the evening traffic. Good from 18.00 onwards.
Eating
- Pho
- Beef noodle soup eaten in the morning. The broth is the point, so choose a stall that is busy before 9.00. A bowl costs 50,000–80,000 dong.
- Bun cha
- Grilled pork with cold rice noodles, fresh herbs, and dipping sauce. A lunch dish. Crowded shops move fast; expect to pay 60,000–100,000 dong.
- Banh mi
- A baguette stuffed with pork, pate, pickled carrot, cucumber, and chilli. The best examples are gone by afternoon. About 25,000–40,000 dong.
- Cha ca
- Turmeric-marinated fish fried with dill and spring onions at the table, then eaten with rice noodles. The street it comes from is still named Cha Ca Street. Prices sit around 100,000–200,000 dong.
- Egg coffee
- Thick Vietnamese coffee whipped with egg yolk and condensed milk. Rich enough for one cup. About 30,000–50,000 dong at a cafe in the old town.
- Bia hoi
- Fresh draught beer brewed daily and sold at street corners. Light and cold, 3–4% alcohol, at 5,000–10,000 dong a glass. A good way to end a hot day.
- Bun dau mam tom
- Cold rice noodles, fried tofu, pork, and herbs dipped into fermented shrimp paste. The smell is strong and the taste is sharper. A set costs roughly 80,000 dong.
Practical
- Money
- The currency is the Vietnamese dong. Roughly 25,000 dong equals 1 US dollar. Cash is expected at markets, food stalls, and motorbike taxis; shops and hotels take cards. Use bank ATMs and carry small notes.
- Transport
- Most visitors use Grab for metered taxis and motorbike taxis. A short central ride costs 50,000–100,000 dong. Xanh SM is a reliable electric taxi app. Public buses are cheap but hard to follow, and the metro mostly serves the suburbs. Walking is the fastest way around the lake and Old Quarter.
- Safety
- Hanoi is a safe city for travellers. The main risks are bag-snatching from motorbikes and pickpocketing near the lake. Cross streets at a steady pace, keep your bag on the side away from the road, and stay alert in crowds.
- Opening hours
- Most museums open 8.00–17.00 and close one day a week, usually Monday. The Ho Chi Minh Mausoleum is open on some weekday and weekend mornings but closes for maintenance in autumn, so check before you plan around it. Shops in the Old Quarter often run from 9.00 to 21.30.
- Seasons
- Autumn, from September to November, is the most comfortable season. Winter is cool and grey, summer is hot and wet. Prices do not swing much by season, though hotel rates tend to drop in winter.
Worth knowing
- Tap water is not drinkable; use bottled or filtered water.
- Carry toilet paper and hand sanitiser; many public toilets have no paper.
- Remove your shoes before entering temples and many private homes.
- Street noise carries into most hotels; bring earplugs if you are a light sleeper.
- Motorbikes beep constantly; it means 'I am here', not 'get out of the way'.
- Have small 10,000–20,000 dong notes for food stalls and motorbike taxis.
Questions
- How many days should I spend in Hanoi?
- Two full days covers the Old Quarter, Hoan Kiem Lake, one museum, and the Temple of Literature. Three days is better if you want a day trip outside the city or a slower pace.
- Is Hanoi expensive?
- It is cheaper than most Western cities. Street food costs 30,000–80,000 dong, a mid-range hotel runs from 600,000 to 1,500,000 dong a night, and museums charge 30,000–40,000 dong. Western food and imported drinks cost more.
- Is Hanoi walkable?
- The central area is walkable, with the Old Quarter, lake, and French Quarter within 20–30 minutes on foot. Pavements are often full of parked motorbikes, so you walk at the road edge. Use a taxi for anything farther.
- Do people in Hanoi speak English?
- Not much outside tourist businesses. Signs often include English, hotel and cafe staff speak enough, and the Grab app keeps fares clear, so the language gap causes few real problems.
- Is Hanoi safe at night?
- The Old Quarter and Hoan Kiem Lake stay lively until late and are generally safe. Keep a phone out of reach of street, do not flash cash, and avoid quiet back alleys after midnight.
- Is it worth going to Hanoi in winter?
- Winter is quiet and hotel prices drop, but the city is grey and you may get several days of drizzle. It works well if you plan around museums, cafes, and street food rather than lake walks and boat trips.
- What is the best area to stay in Hanoi?
- The Old Quarter suits a first visit because most sights are within walking distance. The French Quarter is quieter and more upmarket. Tay Ho, near West Lake, is good for longer stays and a calmer scene.
- How do you cross the road in Hanoi?
- Walk at a slow, steady pace and do not stop suddenly. Motorbikes stream around you, so timing only matters with cars and buses, which are heavier and less willing to swerve.