Madrid is a dense, walkable city of long days and late nights, where the heat seems to push life into the evening. It is a working capital, not a theme park, and its best moments happen in neighbourhoods, markets, and parks between meals. The city is flat, full of light, and easy to navigate on foot.
When to go
- Spring (March to May)
- Mild temperatures, from about 10 to 20°C, with long daylight and the city's main festival, San Isidro, in May. Parks are green, terraces fill up, and prices are moderate. This is the best time to come.
- Autumn (September to November)
- Warm September, cooler October and November, and fewer tourists than in spring. Many cultural events start in the autumn. Also an excellent time, with the same mild feel.
- Summer (June to August)
- Hot, often above 35°C, but dry. The city partly empties in August and many small shops close, but outdoor life moves to the evenings. If you come, plan for long afternoons indoors and outings after 20:00.
- Winter (December to February)
- Cold, around 2 to 10°C, with some frost and occasional rain. Fewer crowds and cheaper flights and hotels, and the city still runs. Christmas lights are a draw, but avoid a packed Plaza Mayor on New Year's Eve.
Getting your bearings
The geographic centre is Puerta del Sol. North of Sol is Gran Vía and the districts of Malasaña and Chamberí. To the north-east lies the upscale Salamanca district. South of Sol is La Latina and the old city. West is the Madrid Río park along the Manzanares River, and east is Retiro Park. The old city is small: from the Royal Palace to the Prado Museum is a 25-minute walk, and from La Latina to Malasaña is about 15 minutes.
Getting around
The Metro covers the city well; a single trip costs €1.50 and a 10-ride Metrobús card costs about €12. In the centre, walking is usually faster for distances under 2 km. Buses run day and night, and taxis are reasonably priced. Uber and Cabify operate, but in the central district a Metro trip rarely makes sense.
Where to stay
- Huertas / Barrio de las Letras
- The old literary quarter between Sol and the Prado. Quiet, narrow streets, many hotels and apartments, and a few classic tapas bars. Good for a first visit and for walking to museums.
- La Latina
- The oldest part of the city, south of Sol. Its maze of streets fills with people for tapas and vermouth at lunchtime, especially on weekends. Staying here is loud but atmospheric, and the Sunday market in Plaza de la Cebada is a real draw.
- Malasaña
- North of Gran Vía, the centre of the 1980s movida. Now it is a hub of indie shops, coffee places, and nightlife. Expect noise at night; hotels here are small and often on busy streets.
- Salamanca
- The upscale district on the east side, with wide, straight streets and a grid layout. Luxury shops and expensive restaurants. Quiet, clean, and safe, but further from the old town's noise.
- Chamberí
- A comfortable, largely residential area north of Malasaña. Good neighbourhood restaurants, less tourist presence, and easy Metro access. Cheaper than the centre and a good choice for a longer stay.
- Arganzuela
- The area around Madrid Río and the Matadero cultural centre. Modern, open spaces, less historic, and good for cyclists and families. It is a 20-minute walk from the centre.
A day here
An art, kings, and park day
- Palacio Real (Royal Palace)Start here at 9:30 to beat the tour buses. Allow one and a half hours for the state rooms and the Sabatini Gardens. Entry €14, free for EU citizens in the final two hours before closing on weekdays. The guard change ceremony happens on some mornings; check the palace's website.
- Plaza MayorA 10-minute walk from the palace, this arcaded square is photogenic but busy. Walk through quickly, then take Calle Cava de San Miguel toward the old food market.
- Mercado de San MiguelStop for a small plate of jamón and a vermouth at the bar. It is small and crowded by 13:00, so go around 12:00. A snack and drink here will cost about €8–12. Don't treat it as a full meal.
- Retiro ParkA 20-minute walk or a 5-minute metro ride to the east. Enter at the Puerta de Alcalá, walk to the lake, and consider a rowing boat (€6 for 45 minutes). The park is free and open daily from dawn to dusk. Spend an hour or two.
- Museo del PradoEnd the day here. The collection of Velázquez and Goya is obligatory, but the building is huge. To avoid fatigue, pick one room, like the Galleria of Velázquez, and save the rest. Entry €15, free for under-18s and students. Closed Mondays. The museum is busiest between 11:00 and 14:00 and after 16:00.
Eating
- Tortilla de patatas
- Potato omelette, served at almost any bar. Try it at a bodega or a tapas bar with a cold beer.
- Bocadillo de calamares
- Fried squid sandwich, a Madrid street staple. Plaza Mayor and the streets behind it are full of bars selling them for about €4.
- Cocido madrileño
- The classic chickpea and pork stew, served as three courses: soup, vegetables, and meat. It is heavy, eaten at lunch, and best in the cooler months. Many restaurants serve it only on Thursdays.
- Churros con chocolate
- Fried dough with thick hot chocolate, a Sunday morning breakfast. The famous spot is near the Puerta del Sol, but the dish exists in every neighbourhood.
- Mercado de San Antón
- A modern market in Salamanca, less touristy than San Miguel, with stalls upstairs and a tapas terrace on the roof. It is more comfortable and less crowded.
- Vermut in La Latina
- The city's aperitif culture. At midday from Friday to Sunday, streets like Calle Cava Baja are full of people drinking vermut straight from the barrel and eating olives.
- Jamón ibérico
- Iberian ham, served in slices everywhere. You can buy a small plate of the best acorn-fed ones in select bars, but quality varies. Ask for jamón ibérico de bellota and be ready to pay.
Practical
- Money
- The currency is the euro. Cards are accepted almost everywhere, but small bars and some market stalls only take cash. ATMs are common.
- Transport
- Metro, buses, and light rail are operated by a single ticket system. A single Metro trip costs about €1.50, and the 10-ride Metrobús card is around €12. The airport is connected by Metro and Cercanías train; both cost extra. Taxis are licensed with a light on the roof and run on a meter. Ride-hailing apps are available.
- Safety
- Madrid is a safe city for its size. Pickpocketing is the main risk, especially on Metro Line 3, in Puerta del Sol, and around the Prado. Keep wallets out of back pockets, and avoid empty side streets at 3am. Violent crime is rare.
- Opening hours
- Shops open around 10:00, close for a long lunch (often 14:00–17:00) and may stay open until 20:30 or 21:00. Small shops in central neighbourhoods may close on Sundays. Museums usually close Mondays. Restaurants serve lunch from 13:30 to 16:00 and dinner from 20:30 to 23:00, many taking a break in between.
- Seasons
- Spring and autumn are the best times: mild days, fewer tourists, and good hotel deals. Summer is hot and emptier, with August being the quiet month. Winter is cold but cheaper and still lively, with fewer visitors.
Worth knowing
- Many attractions close on Mondays, so plan the museum day carefully.
- The Metro is efficient, but the airport line has a surcharge.
- Book tickets for the Prado and the Palacio Real online to skip queues.
- Dinner in Madrid is served late, from about 21:00, and lunch from 14:00. Adjust your schedule and you will fit in better.
- The water in Madrid is perfectly safe to drink.
- In high summer, bring sun protection and a hat; the altitude of 650 metres means strong UV.
Questions
- How many days do you need in Madrid?
- Three full days are enough to see the museum district, the old town, and the main parks. With five days you can add day trips to Toledo or El Escorial.
- Is Madrid expensive?
- Compared to London or Paris, it is a bargain. A meal in a normal restaurant costs €12–20, a metro ticket about €1.50, and a beer in a local bar €2.50–3.50. Museum entries add up, but many are free after a certain hour.
- Is Madrid walkable?
- Most of the historic centre is flat and about 3 km across. You can walk from the Royal Palace to Retiro Park in 30 minutes. Use the metro for the outer neighbourhoods.
- Do people speak English?
- Much more than a decade ago, but outside the centre it is still limited. Younger people and hotel staff usually speak some English. A few phrases of Spanish help a lot.
- Is Madrid safe at night?
- The centre is busy and lit well into the night. Take normal precautions against pickpockets and avoid the edges of parks at 2am. The metro runs until about 1:30 and night buses cover the night routes.
- Is it worth visiting Madrid in winter?
- Winter is worth it for the thinner crowds and cheaper hotels. The short, cool days still leave time for museums, cafes, and food halls. Just bring a coat.
- What is the best area to stay in Madrid?
- For a first visit, stay in Huertas or near Sol for central access. For a quieter stay, choose Chamberí or Salamanca. For nightlife, Malasaña is livelier but noisier.
- Is it true you get free tapas with your drink?
- In some bars, yes, you get a small plate like olives or a piece of tortilla with each drink in La Latina and the centre. In more upscale bars, you pay for the tapa. It is not a city-wide law.