Munich is a tidy, prosperous city of beer gardens, concert halls, and snow-capped Alps on the horizon. The center is compact and walkable, with a decorous flow to the streets, and the Isar river runs through green spaces on the eastern edge.

When to go

Spring
Cool and often rainy in April, but the beer gardens open in waves and the parks turn green. Crowds are moderate until the May holidays; prices are far lower than in summer.
Summer
Warm and bright, with long evenings in beer gardens and along the Isar. This is the busiest time; streets and hotels are expensive. The English Garden is full of people, and the city is open-air.
Autumn
Crisp and golden in October, with fewer tourists. September brings Oktoberfest, which pours a rough crowd through the center; if you are not there for the festival, avoid that fortnight.
Winter
Cold, grey and short daylight hours, but the Christkindlmarkt lights up the old town. It is a good season for museums and hot mulled wine, with fewer queues. Snow is not guaranteed.

Getting your bearings

The old town sits inside a ring road, with Marienplatz at its center. The pedestrian streets fan out from there, the Residenz lies just north, and the Viktualienmarkt is a five-minute walk southeast. Ten minutes east across the river lies the Isar. North of the old town, across the ring, Maxvorstadt is the museum quarter, and the Englischer Garten runs north from the Hofgarten.

Getting around

The MVV network, with U-Bahn, S-Bahn, trams and buses, is clean and efficient. A single inner-city adult ticket costs just over €4, a day ticket for one person about €9, and a group day ticket covers two adults and up to three children. Tickets come from blue machines at stations; carry cash or a bank card. Walking is faster than the metro inside the old town. The city is flat, and rental bikes with apps cover the whole centre at €1 to €3 per hour.

Where to stay

Altstadt
The old town inside the ring, anchored by Marienplatz and the pedestrian shopping streets. It is touristy and busy, with the best public transport access, but the hotels are pricey and the crowds can be thick by mid-morning.
Maxvorstadt
Just north of the ring, a student and museum quarter. The Pinakotheken galleries line the thoroughfare here, and the streets are full of coffee shops, bookshops and university life.
Schwabing
Once the artists' quarter, now a leafy, slightly fashionable edge of the city. It is the place for evening bars and quiet posh streets, with the Englischer Garten at its southern end.
Glockenbachviertel
South of the old town, a relaxed residential quarter with a mix of design shops, cafés, and the city's gay heart. It is well connected by tram and U-Bahn and lively without being a tourist zone.
Haidhausen
Across the river east of the center, around the Orléansplatz. It feels like a small town within the city, with pre-war blocks, small bakeries, and a calm, family-oriented feel.

A day here

Classic Munich on foot

  1. Marienplatz and the GlockenspielStart here at 11 a.m. for the painted figures in the tower of the Neues Rathaus. The show runs ten minutes, draws a big crowd, and costs nothing. Get there ten minutes early for a clear view.
  2. ViktualienmarktA five-minute walk south. This market sells fruit, cheese, flowers and hot food. A white sausage breakfast with a pretzel is the move; expect to pay about €10. It is busiest before 2 p.m., quiet and shuttered after 6 p.m.
  3. ResidenzThe former royal palace of the Bavarian kings, a 15-minute walk north. The treasury and the Hall of the Antiquities are the highlights. Give it two hours and budget €12 for entry; queues shorten after 2 p.m.
  4. Eisbach waveAt the southern end of the Englischer Garten, a fast river wave where surfers balance on the shoulder. It is free and hypnotic to watch; the Chinesischer Turm beer garden is a 15-minute walk north through the park.
  5. Chinesischer Turm beer gardenOne of the largest beer gardens in the city, under a fragile old tower. Buy a beer and carry your own food to the long benches; or get takeaway from the stalls. It fills by late afternoon; go early or sit in the far corners.
  6. Schwabing dinnerFrom the garden, walk west into Schwabing for a table in one of the quiet side streets. Kitchens close by 9:30 p.m. in many places, so think ahead; an honest Bavarian meal with a beer costs around €25–30.

Eating

Weißwurst
A white veal and herb sausage, poached rather than grilled, served straight in a bowl of warm water with a pretzel and sweet mustard. Eat it by peeling off the skin; it is a breakfast or mid-morning dish, not an evening one.
Leberkäse
A baked meat loaf with a fine texture, cut thick and put in a crusty roll with mustard. Cheap, fast, and everywhere; a proper street lunch for under €5.
Beer garden with a care package
Most beer gardens let you bring your own food. A picnic of bread, cheese, pickles, and radish from a local shop works, but you must buy the drinks at the garden's counter. The beer is about €9–11 the litre.
Viktualienmarkt
The city's daily market, with stalls for cheese, charcuterie, bread, and produce, plus a small beer garden under chestnut trees. Lunch from several stalls is easy and better than a chain sandwich.
Schweinshaxe
Roast pork knuckle with crispy skin, served with dumpling and gravy. Heavy, salty, and made for a winter evening. One is enough for two if you don't have a beer appetite.
A Bavarian-Bavarian breakfast
The local 'Brotzeit' is bread, butter, cheese, and radish, often eaten with a beer at a counter with a stool and newspaper. Ask for 'Brotzeit' and they'll build a plate without asking the price.
Konditorei cake
Munich takes pastry seriously. A mid-afternoon coffee with Apfelstrudel or a slice of cream cake in an old-style café is a slow appointment; expect to pay €7–9 for the whole ritual.

Practical

Money
Euro. Card acceptance is common in the center, but beer gardens, small cafés and market stalls like cash. ATMs on the major streets are plentiful; let the machine note a lower fee by withdrawing a larger amount.
Transport
Single adult ticket for the inner area costs just over €4. Day, group and extended-zone tickets are worth it if you leave the old town. A Munich City Tour Card also covers public transport, but most people do fine buying one ticket per day.
Safety
The city is safe. Watch for pickpockets in the Marienplatz crush and near the station. The most likely nuisance is a loud drunk person late at night during Oktoberfest; stay in the well-trodden streets and you will feel no real danger.
Opening hours
Shops open at 10 a.m., close at 8 p.m. weekdays and 6 p.m. on Saturdays. Sunday is near total closure for retail, but museums are open. Beer gardens run roughly from March or April until October; Christmas markets run through December.
Seasons
Late spring (May–June) is the pick: mild, green, with the first beer gardens open and the pre-summer lull. July and August are hot and costly; January is quiet and cold. Oktoberfest itself is not a music festival; it is eleven days of drinking in September that brings the last of the crowds.

Worth knowing

  • Eat dinner before 9 p.m.; many kitchens close by 9:30.
  • Sunday is a real rest day: most shops are shuttered, but museums and the Englischer Garten are open.
  • The airport is far (40–50 minutes by S-Bahn), so the arrival day is mostly travel; plan a light evening.
  • If you want to see the Alps from the city, take the S-Bahn to Wolfratshausen and a taxi up to the Kochelsee, or just look past the TV tower on a clear day.
  • Munich is the capital of Bavaria, and Bavarians use a different flag, a different dialect, and a different sense of humour from the rest of Germany. The city feels Southern, not just German.

Questions

How many days in Munich is enough?
Two full days cover the old town, the Residenz, and the museums in Maxvorstadt. Add a third if you want Nymphenburg palace or the Deutsches Museum, and a fourth for the Alps.
Is Munich expensive?
Yes, for Germany. A beer and a lunch plate in a beer garden will come to roughly €20, and a simple hotel runs over €120 a night. Public transport is cheap compared with taxis.
Do I need cash in Munich?
You can get by on cards at hotels, supermarkets, and most restaurants, but beer gardens, market stalls, and smaller bakeries still prefer cash. Carry €50 across the day to be safe.
Is Munich a walkable city?
The old town is compact and very walkable. The museum quarter is a 15-minute walk north from Marienplatz; the Englischer Garten starts 10 minutes east. You'll use the tram or U-Bahn only to cross the city.
Do people in Munich speak English?
Yes, in the centre and in tourist-facing businesses. Outside that, younger people speak good English; older residents may not switch even if they can. Speaking two words of German helps with service, not just politeness.
Is Munich safe at night?
It is among the safest big European cities. Streets in the old town and Schwabing stay busy around bars until late. The usual street smarts apply, but the bigger risk is losing your wallet with an open beer in your hand.
Is Munich worth visiting in winter?
It depends on your reason. The Christmas markets in early December are beautiful and you will feel the city's festive furniture. But December is cold, dark and wet, and museums close around 5 p.m. Two long days are enough.
Is the Hofbräuhaus better than a smaller beer hall?
The Hofbräuhaus is a loud, tourist-filled hall with survival-level service and a cover band. If you want local atmosphere, walk ten minutes to a quieter beer hall selling the same beers without the crowd.