New Orleans, Louisiana, United States

When to go

Spring

Mardi Gras falls between early February and early March, and the weather is mild, with highs near 20C. Parade season brings intense crowds and higher hotel prices. Outside the two carnival weeks and the Jazz Fest in late April, spring is the best balance of warm weather and fewer people.

Summer

Highs reach 32C with high humidity and daily afternoon storms. Many locals leave in July and August, and hotel rates drop. The music and food scenes continue, but midday walking is uncomfortable and air conditioning is essential.

Fall

September is still summer and the peak of hurricane season. October brings cooler days in the mid-20s, smaller crowds, and the start of the autumn festival season. For a first visit, late October is the best pick.

Winter

Daytime highs usually sit in the mid-teens, with nights near 7C. The weeks after Thanksgiving through New Year's are busy and expensive, then carnival season fills the weekends with smaller parades. Expect cold snaps; it is not the warm New Orleans of postcards, but the city is lively.

Getting your bearings

New Orleans sits on the east bank of the Mississippi River, and locals give directions by the river and the lake. The French Quarter is the dense historic grid, with Canal Street at its upriver edge and Esplanade Avenue downriver. The Central Business District and Warehouse District run from Canal Street about a mile. The Marigny and Bywater continue downriver from Esplanade for another mile. Uptown, the Garden District and Magazine Street are about three miles from the Quarter, past the curve in the river. The French Quarter takes twenty minutes to walk across; the walk from Jackson Square to the Marigny is about fifteen minutes and from Jackson Square to the Garden District about an hour.

Getting around

Most visitors walk in the Quarter and Marigny. For longer trips, the RTA runs buses and the historic streetcars: the St. Charles line runs from Canal Street uptown, and the Canal line runs to City Park. A single ride costs about $1.25, and a Jazzy Pass day pass costs about $3 and covers all lines. Ride-share is the usual way to cover larger distances or carry bags. Bicycles are available by the hour, and the streets are flat, though some pavements are uneven.

Where to stay

French Quarter

The old city, bordered by Canal Street, Rampart Street, Esplanade Avenue and the river. It holds the bars, hotels, souvenir shops and the constant stream of first-time visitors. Staying here puts you in the middle of the noise; rooms on Bourbon Street are loud until 4am. It is the most convenient base, but not the calmest.

Marigny and Bywater

Two residential neighbourhoods downriver from the Quarter, starting at Esplanade Avenue. Frenchmen Street has the best cluster of live music in the city. The streets are lined with pastel Creole cottages and shotgun houses; staying here means a short walk to the Quarter without sleeping beside it. Hotels are scarce, and most visitors rent houses.

Central Business District and Warehouse District

The business core between Canal Street and the Superdome, with converted 19th-century warehouses holding galleries, breweries and restaurants. It is quieter than the Quarter at night, has a high concentration of hotels, and is an easy walk to almost everything. Game days at the Superdome and Smoothie King Center put it in demand.

Garden District and Uptown

A wealthy neighbourhood along St. Charles Avenue, with Greek Revival houses behind iron fences and giant live oaks. The St. Charles streetcar runs through its centre. Staying here gives you quiet, green streets and access to Magazine Street's shops and restaurants, but you will ride a streetcar to the Quarter.

Treme

The historically Black neighbourhood directly north of the French Quarter, where jazz took shape in the early 1900s. It is still a working district with a mix of restored houses and blight. Staying here is possible but has fewer hotels; it is better to come for the culture than for late-night nightlife.

Mid-City

A residential area between the Quarter and Lake Pontchartrain, spread around the large green space of City Park. It has po-boy shops, bars, and a local pace. It is where the Jazz Festival is held in late April. Staying here means renting a house or a small hotel and taking a streetcar or bus to the centre.

A day here

A first day in old New Orleans

1. Royal Street, 9amWalk the full length of Royal Street from Canal Street to Esplanade Avenue. The galleries and antique shops unlock around 11am, so the street is mostly empty. Allow an hour. Free. It is busiest in the afternoon.
2. Jackson Square, 10:30amThe square in front of St. Louis Cathedral. Artists hang their work on the iron fence, musicians play at the corners, and the river is a block away. Thirty minutes is enough. Free, though performers expect small bills. Crowds build by midday.
3. French Market, 11:30amThe covered market along the river sells produce, souvenirs and prepared food. A shrimp po-boy and a drink cost about $15. The market is busiest around 1pm. The beignet café next to it is fine if the line is short; do not queue for more than fifteen minutes.
4. City Park, 1:30pmTake the Canal streetcar or a ride-share out to this large public park with oak trees that predate the city. The New Orleans Museum of Art sits at the centre; walking the park is free and the museum charges admission. Allow two hours, check the museum's closed days before you go, and expect weekend afternoons to be busy.
5. Frenchmen Street, 7pmThree blocks of music venues in the Marigny, a fifteen-minute walk from the Quarter. Most clubs charge a cover of $0 to $20; arriving at 7pm means catching the cheaper early set. The street noise and street food peaks after 9pm.

Eating

Beignets

Square fried dough covered in powdered sugar. The classic version comes from Café du Monde, which is open every day and moves its queue quickly; a serving costs about $4. Any local coffee shop makes the same thing if the line is long.

Oysters

Gulf oysters are served raw, chargrilled with butter and breadcrumbs, and fried. Bars and seafood restaurants across the city offer them, often at happy-hour prices around $15 to $20 a dozen. They are at their best in the colder months.

Po-boys

A crusty French bread sandwich filled with fried shrimp, oysters, catfish, or roast beef, dressed with lettuce, tomato, pickles and mayo. A local po-boy shop charges $10 to $15. The bread and the fried seafood are the point.

Muffuletta

A big round sandwich of salami, ham and olive salad, made by Italian delis in the Quarter. It is best eaten cold and serves two people. Expect to pay about $15 for a whole sandwich.

Red beans and rice

The traditional Monday dish, made with a ham bone and served with smoked sausage. It is cheap, filling, and appears on most lunch menus. A plate runs $12 to $18.

Gumbo

The dark-brown soup of roux, okra, seafood or sausage and rice. Every restaurant makes its own version; the strongest are usually in small neighbourhood places rather than the French Quarter. A bowl costs $10 to $15.

Crawfish

In season from roughly February through June, crawfish are boiled by the sack and poured onto paper-covered tables. Prices vary with the catch; a pound costs about $5 to $9 in peak season. This is a hands-on eating experience.

Food halls

The French Market in the Quarter has a mix of stalls and prepared foods. A meal there costs $12 to $18. These are good places to try several things quickly, but the best single-dish cooking is still in the neighbourhood restaurants.

Practical

Money

Most places take cards, but keep cash for small bars, po-boy shops and street musicians. Tipping of 15 to 20 percent is expected in sit-down restaurants. Sales tax is around 10 percent, and hotel taxes add roughly 15 percent to the room bill.

Transport

The airport is about 15 miles west of downtown; a taxi or ride-share costs around $35 and takes 30 to 45 minutes. The RTA streetcars and buses are useful for the St. Charles and Canal lines. A single ride costs about $1.25, a day pass around $3. Ride-share is the easiest way to reach City Park or the Garden District from the Quarter.

Safety

Violent crime is a persistent problem in neighbourhoods outside the tourist core. Stay on streets with other people at night, keep phones and wallets in front pockets, and take a ride-share instead of walking after dark in areas you do not know. Car break-ins are common; leave nothing visible in a parked car.

Opening hours

The French Quarter runs late: bars stay open until the small hours and some never close. Museums and shops generally open around 10am, and smaller restaurants close two days a week. Outside the Quarter, most blocks close by 10pm. Check specific opening hours before you go.

Seasons

Hurricane season runs from June 1 to November 30, with the highest risk in August and September. Summer heat is severe and the air is humid. Winter can have freezing mornings. Late October and late April are the calmest and most comfortable periods.

Worth knowing

• The street grid is old and irregular; walking maps are more useful than driving ones.
• Some of the city's best music happens in bars with small covers and no stage; walk down Frenchmen Street and listen before deciding.
• Parking near the Quarter is difficult and expensive; use ride-share or the streetcar instead of renting a car.
• In July and August many local places close for a week or two.
• A guided tour is required for St. Louis Cemetery No. 1; book it in advance because it sells out.