Prague is a city of stone, beer, and tram tracks built on a river bend. The centre is compact enough to walk, dense with centuries of buildings that survived the war because the city was occupied rather than bombed. It rewards slow walking more than ticking sights, and its main difficulty is the tourist crowds along the old-town routes.

When to go

Spring
Temperatures range from 8 to 18 °C, with rain possible. The trees are green, the daylight lengthens, and hotel prices stay below summer. The city is calm before the tour buses arrive in May. Late April to early June is a good pick.
Summer
Warm, 20 to 30 °C, and daylight lasts until late. The city works at full speed, beer gardens open late, and the evening light is slow. Tourist numbers are at maximum across the Old Town, hotel prices double, and the most visible restaurants are overpriced. Book well ahead.
Autumn
Cool, 5 to 15 °C, with dry spells and fewer visitors. The parks turn orange and the cultural season starts: opera, concerts, cinema. Prices ease after September. This is the best balance of weather and calm; late September is the pick.
Winter
Cold, around 0 °C, with fog and occasional snow. Central heating works well. The Christmas market runs from late November through Advent, and January and February are quiet and cheap. If you want low prices and no queues, go in January. If you want the market, go in early December on a weekday.

Getting your bearings

The Vltava river flows north-south, splitting the city into an east bank and a west bank. East bank: Staré Město (Old Town) holds the Old Town Square, and Nové Město (New Town) lies to the south with Wenceslas Square. West bank: Malá Strana (Lesser Town) slopes up to the castle hill, with Hradčany above it. Charles Bridge connects the Old Town to Lesser Town. You can walk from the Old Town Square to the Charles Bridge in five minutes, and from there to the castle in another twenty, most of it uphill.

Getting around

Walk. The tourist centre measures about 1.5 by 1.5 km, and walking is faster than the tram for most north-south trips. For longer moves, the metro has three lines and the trams run all night. Buy a time-based ticket from the ticket machines in metro stations or the PID app; a 30-minute adult ticket costs 30 CZK, a 90-minute ticket 40 CZK, and a 24-hour pass 120 CZK. Validate it at the start of the first ride. The main interchange is Můstek, where the green and yellow metro lines cross under Wenceslas Square.

Where to stay

Staré Město
The old town is the tourist hub. Narrow streets, the astronomical clock, and the most expensive beer in Prague. It is where most visitors stay because the sights are outside the door. Staying here means noise and crowds until late, especially in summer and around the square.
Malá Strana
Lesser Town slopes from the river to the castle. Baroque palaces, embassies, and some of the city's best cafés. At night, fewer people. A good base for a quieter visit, but you climb a hill every time you come home.
Hradčany
The castle district is a hilltop quarter with a large view over the red roofs. It becomes quiet after the castle grounds close. Staying here is an option, but the old town is 25 minutes down a steep staircase, and the trams at the bottom add time.
Nové Město
New Town is the 19th-century city below the old town, centred on Wenceslas Square and the National Museum. It has wide streets, offices, shops, and a mix that is actually lived-in. It is the most practical area to stay: fifteen minutes on foot from the old square at a lower price, with metro stations along the main streets.
Žižkov
A hillside neighbourhood of brick tenements, Czech pubs, and a television tower. Ten minutes east of the old town. It is the least tourist-facing area on this list, with a serious local pub scene. Staying there means hilly walks and less convenient late transport.
Vinohrady
A residential district of tree-lined avenues and open-air cafés around Jiřího z Poděbrad square. It is fifteen minutes by tram from the old town and calmer than anywhere on the left bank. Good base if you want to live in Prague rather than visit a preserved puzzle.

A day here

A day across the river and up the hill

  1. Charles Bridge before 8 amWalk from the Old Town side; the bridge is nearly empty until about 8:30. It takes 10 minutes to cross, and there is no charge. Go on a weekday, not a Saturday.
  2. Old Town Hall towerThe tower is on the Old Town Square. Climb 136 steps for the only view where you see the red roofs and spires properly. It costs about 250 CZK and the queue is shortest before 10 am. Allow 45 minutes, including the crowd around the astronomical clock.
  3. Tram 22 to Prague CastleTake tram 22 or 23 from Malostranské náměstí two stops to Pražský hrad; your transit ticket covers the ride. The castle is a complex, not one building. The paid circuit includes the cathedral, the old royal palace, and Golden Lane, about 250 CZK. The grounds are free. Morning is for the cathedral; by afternoon the tour buses arrive.
  4. Malostranské náměstíAfter coming down the castle steps, stop at Lesser Town Square. It is quieter than the old town, and the trams run through the middle. This is the place for a mid-afternoon beer, not the old square. No charge for looking; a beer costs about 60 CZK.
  5. Letná Park at sunsetWalk uphill to Letná, a high plateau park across the Vltava from the old town. It takes 25 minutes from Lesser Town. The beer garden at the edge is basic, and the view is the point. Free. Leave by dark in winter.

Eating

Svíčková
The heavy Czech classic: beef in a root-vegetable sauce served with bread dumplings, a spoon of cranberry, and cream. Home-style versions appear on lunch menus in ordinary pubs for roughly 150 to 200 CZK. It is autumn and winter food.
Smažený sýr
A slice of fried edam with tartar sauce, often on a bun or with potato salad. It is the everyday Czech meal more than goulash. Look for it in a serious pub at noon, not in a restaurant near the square.
Chlebíčky
Open-faced sandwiches on soft white bread, a Czech invention. A good deli has a tray of them by weight; you eat two or three as a quick lunch. They cost about 30 to 50 CZK each and are better than any hot lunch near a tourist site.
Czech lager
The city runs on lager. Try a 10° light or a 12° fuller version from tank or barrel. Expect 50 to 70 CZK in a local pub and 90 CZK or more on the Old Town Square. A half-pint is the normal size in Czech beer culture.
Trdelník
The chimney-cake pastry sold from stalls around the Old Town Square is not originally Czech, and the versions filled with ice cream are aimed at one-time visitors. It is overpriced and skippable. Buy a slice of proper Czech cake at a café instead.
Riverside market at Náplavka
On the Rašínovo nábřeží embankment, a farmers' market sets up along the river most Saturdays. The stalls sell grilled sausage, Czech wine, and baked goods. Go by 9 am; by noon it is shoulder-to-shoulder.

Practical

Money
Currency is the Czech koruna (CZK). Cards are accepted in nearly all shops and restaurants, but keep cash for toilets, market stalls, and small kiosks. Check the exchange rate before changing money; street exchange offices with a displayed rate usually give poor terms.
Transport
Metro, tram, and bus share one ticket system. Validate your ticket before you board. The metro runs from about 5:00 to 24:00; night trams run 0:00 to 4:30 on main routes. A 30-minute adult ticket costs 30 CZK, a 90-minute ticket 40 CZK, and a 24-hour pass 120 CZK.
Safety
Prague is safe by European capital standards. The main risks are pickpocketing on crowded trams and in the Charles Bridge crowds, and scams aimed at drunk tourists around Wenceslas Square. The centre is active and well lit at night.
Opening hours
Most shops in the centre open daily from about 10 to 19 with shorter Sunday hours. Pubs and restaurants serve lunch from 11 to 15 and dinner until 22 or 23. Museums and the castle complex close one day a week, often Monday or Tuesday; check each venue before walking there.
Seasons
The tourist centre is busiest from late May to September and again at Christmas. Hotel rates rise and fall with the crowds. July and August are hot and crowded; November to February is cold and cheap. Weekends in Advent bring the longest queues.

Worth knowing

  • Czechia and the Czech Republic are the same country; the short name has been used officially since 2016.
  • Tap water in Prague is safe to drink and free if asked for in a café, though Czechs usually order bottled water at a table.
  • The metro, tram, and bus share a ticket system; validate the ticket once in a yellow validator at the start of the first journey.
  • Supermarkets close early on Sunday and close on major holidays. The airport and main railway station shops stay open longer.
  • The castle complex contains several buildings and ticket circuits. The Golden Lane is included in both main circuits but is the least essential part.

Questions

How many days in Prague is enough?
Three full days is enough. Day one covers the old town and Charles Bridge; day two the castle and Lesser Town; day three can go farther without rushing. With only two days, limit yourself to the central loop and one side of the river.
Is Prague expensive to visit?
It is cheaper than western Europe for food, drink, and transport, but hotel prices in the old town are comparable to other capital cities. A local lunch with soup costs around 200 CZK, and a three-hour visit to the castle complex costs about 250 CZK.
Is Prague walkable?
The area you came to see is walkable on foot in under an hour from end to end. The river, trams, and metro add the rest. The only real climb is the castle, and there is a tram stop at the top of it.
Do people speak English in Prague?
In tourist and business contexts, yes, and most service workers use it. In ordinary neighbourhoods, people under 35 generally have enough English; older people often do not. Knowing prosím and děkuji gets a genuinely warmer response.
Is it safe to walk around Prague at night?
Central Prague stays safe and active into the early morning. The main risks are pickpocketing in tight crowds and scams aimed at drunk tourists on Wenceslas Square. Keep the same street sense you would keep in any big city.
Is Prague worth visiting in winter?
Yes, but for different reasons: low prices, no queues, and the Christmas market. The exchange is cold, wet, dark after 4 pm, and a large part of the experience moves indoors to cafés and museums. If you have a choice, spring and autumn give longer daylight.
What time should I go to the castle to avoid the queue?
Go at 9 am before the ticket counters fill. The cathedral, the biggest draw, is open from 9 and the courtyard gates open even earlier. After 11 it becomes a crowded walk between tour groups.
What should I avoid in Prague?
The trdelník stalls around the square, restaurants with a waiter standing at the door, and exchange offices with a rate in the window all exist for one-time tourists. A pub without a tourist menu is the opposite.