How many days is enough for Seoul?

Four full days covers the central palaces, the markets, Gangnam and a day trip. With five days you can add Bukhansan mountain or the DMZ. Longer stays run out of obvious sights unless you slow down and take Korean classes or drive.

It is cheaper than Tokyo, London or New York, but not cheap. Public transport is very cheap, street food is cheap, and a sit-down meal costs 8,000-15,000 won, which is about $6-11. Hotels and western-style restaurants cost more.

The historic centre is walkable, with most sights within a 30-40 minute walk. The wider city is too spread out and hilly, so use the metro. A full day of walking can be exhausting in summer heat or winter cold.

Do people speak English in Seoul?

English is common in tourist areas and among younger people, and all metro signs and major menus are bilingual. Outside those areas, English drops quickly. A translation app on your phone is more useful than a phrasebook.

Is Seoul safe at night?

It is one of the safest big cities in the world at night. Police are visible, and street crime is low. The main issues are crowded bars, drunk people and busy roads, so use common sense.

Is Seoul worth it in winter?

Yes, if you are dressed for it. Cold, clear days make the palaces and cafes feel cosier, and winter is the cheapest time to visit. The disadvantages are short daylight hours and occasional air-quality warnings.

Seoul, South Korea travel guide, printable

Seoul is a dense, hilly city where five centuries of royal palaces and temple gates sit directly beside glass office towers and neon signs. The streets are crowded, the food is hot and cheap, and the metro moves you faster than a car. It rewards a long walk in the morning, a street-food lunch, and a late dinner in a charcoal grill room.

When to go

Spring: Mild, dry and pleasant in April and May. Cherry blossom season brings large crowds to the riverside parks and palaces, and hotels raise prices. This is the most comfortable time to walk around the city.
Summer: Hot and humid from June to August, with a rainy monsoon in July. The rain does not stop the city, but it makes sightseeing harder. Palaces and markets are quieter, and indoor spots like museums and coffee shops are empty of crowds. If you come, bring an umbrella and light clothes.
Autumn: Clear, cool air from late September to November. The foliage around the palaces and the Han River is the best of the year. Crowds are moderate, prices are normal, and walking is a pleasure. This is the best time to come.
Winter: Dry and cold, with January temperatures below freezing. The city is quieter and cheaper. Palaces look stark and beautiful in the cold, and Korean comfort food and jjimjilbang baths feel necessary. Air quality can be poor, so check the daily dust level.

Getting your bearings

Seoul sits in a bowl-shaped valley between mountains, with the Han River running through the middle. The old core is north of the river, among the palaces, Jongno and Myeongdong; Gangnam is the modern business and shopping district to the south. Central sights are close together: from Gyeongbokgung to Myeongdong is roughly a 30-minute walk, and most stations are one or two metro stops apart. The city is larger than it looks, so use the river as a mental boundary.

Getting around

The metro is the fastest way across Seoul. A single ride costs 1,400 won on a T-money card, and transfers between lines and buses are discounted if you tap off and on within 30 minutes; the card costs 4,000 won and is sold at every convenience store. Buses fill in the gaps, but traffic can slow them. Taxis are cheap and metered, with a basic fare of about 5,000 won, but they crawl at rush hour. For distances under half an hour, walking is often as quick as a bus and more interesting.

Where to stay

Jongno: The historic core, where you will find Gyeongbokgung, Changdeokgung, Bukchon Hanok Village and Jongmyo Shrine. It is busy with tourists and office workers during the day, but the streets around the palaces get quiet after 19:00. Staying here puts you in walking distance of most of the old city.
Myeongdong: The shopping district around two parallel pedestrian streets, packed with cosmetics shops, street food stalls and souvenir stores. It is convenient and overwhelming at the same time. Staying here is loud and pricey, and its restaurants are mostly geared to tourists.
Hongdae: The university neighbourhood around Hongik University station. It is the centre for indie music, cheap food and bar-hopping, and the streets stay busy until late. Staying in Hongdae is good if you want nightlife, but rooms can be small and the noise is constant.
Itaewon: A long commercial street with an unusual mix of global restaurants, craft beer bars and street food. It is the most diverse part of Seoul, and a home base for many foreigners. The area has a grungier feel and its nightlife is loud.
Gangnam: The business and shopping district south of the river, with wide roads, luxury malls and corporate towers. It feels cleaner and more expensive, and is a good base for work trips. The subway line 2 runs through it, but it lacks the older Seoul character.
Seongsu: A former industrial zone between the river and the city that has filled with cafes, bakeries and small galleries. It is calm and walkable, with clusters of repurposed factories. Happening but not hectic, and a useful contrast to the neon districts.

A day here

Palaces, street food and a river walk

Gyeongbokgung PalaceArrive at 09:00 when the gates open. The main palace of the Joseon dynasty is big; allow 90 minutes. Entry is 3,000 won. The changing of the guard ceremony outside the main gate is worth seeing for free, but it draws a crowd.
Bukchon Hanok VillageA 15-minute walk uphill from the palace. It is a living neighbourhood of traditional wooden houses, with a few open to visitors. It is free, but respect the private homes. Give it an hour, walking the quiet lanes rather than the main street.
Lunch at Gwangjang MarketA 20-minute walk from Bukchon or one metro stop from Anguk to Jongno 3-ga. The market hall is a swirling crowd of stalls selling bindaetteok, knife-cut noodles and spicy rice cakes. A filling lunch costs 8,000-12,000 won. Sit at any small table.
Cheonggyecheon StreamA restored stream that runs east-west through downtown, with walkways along the water. Walk from the Gwangjang end towards City Hall for 30 minutes, past bridges and small bridges. It is free, and the steps are a place to sit.
Dongdaemun Design PlazaAt dusk, the silver curved buildings of the DDP light up in the nearby Dongdaemun area. The plaza and the surrounding park are free, and you can walk through the underground mall. The adjacent Dongdaemun market is for clothes, fabric and street food.
Korean barbecue dinner in JongnoAny grill table restaurant on a side street will do. Samgyeopsal (pork belly) costs around 15,000 won a portion, and it comes with side dishes, rice and lettuce. The grill smoke is part of the experience. Allow 90 minutes.

Eating

Korean barbecue: Grilled at the table, usually pork belly or beef short ribs. It is a collective meal, loud and smoky. Expect to pay 15,000-25,000 won per person and to go home smelling of charcoal.
Bibimbap: Rice topped with seasoned vegetables, a fried egg and red pepper paste. The boring-looking version in photos tastes far better in the bowl; the hot stone pot version gives you crisp rice at the bottom. A standard meal costs 8,000-12,000 won.
Bindaetteok: A ground mung bean pancake fried until crispy, served with a soy dip. The best place to try it is Gwangjang Market, where they are cooked in big circles in front of you. A small plate costs 5,000-7,000 won.
Tteokbokki: Rice cakes simmered in a sweet-spicy red sauce and sold by the bowl in street stalls and snack shops. It is cheap, filling and best eaten standing up. Many stalls also serve fried dumplings and fish cakes.
Naengmyeon: Cold buckwheat noodles in a cold broth, sometimes very cold, eaten with a spoonful of mustard and a slice of pear. It is the dish to order in summer, but it turns up all year. A bowl costs 9,000-13,000 won.
Gwangjang Market: A covered market that turns into one enormous food hall at lunch. It is the closest thing Seoul has to a street-food ritual, and the sellers are used to foreigners. Come hungry, eat at whatever table has space.

Practical

Money: The South Korean won is the local currency. Credit cards are accepted in nearly every shop and restaurant, and you can draw cash from ATMs in convenience stores and banks. Small market stalls and some old restaurants prefer cash, so hold on to 20,000-30,000 won in notes.
Transport: The metro runs from roughly 05:30 to midnight, with trains every 2-8 minutes in central sections. A single ride costs 1,400 won on a T-money card and 1,500 won with cash. T-money cards work on buses and some taxis. The last trains leave central stations just after midnight.
Safety: Seoul is a very safe city by global standards. Street crime is rare, and violent incidents are rare in tourist areas. The practical dangers are traffic and alcohol: use the marked crossings, watch the turning taxis, and in late-night nightlife districts keep your phone out of sight.
Opening hours: Most attractions open at 09:00 or 10:00 and close between 17:00 and 18:00. Palaces are closed on Tuesdays; major museums are closed on Mondays. Shops open around 10:30 and run to 20:30 or 21:00. Restaurants often take a break from 15:00 to 17:00, and convenience stores are open 24/7.
Seasons: The best weather is from late September to early November and from mid-April to mid-June. July is hot and wet, with heavy rain in the monsoon season. December to February is dry and very cold. Air quality varies; check the daily fine-particle forecast and bring a mask if your tolerance is low.

Worth knowing

The T-money card can be refunded at the end of your trip, minus a 500-won fee, but only at a few stations. Keep it as a souvenir instead.
Naver Map is the reliable map app for Seoul; Google Maps does not show accurate walking routes or bus times.
Many restaurants only serve food at specific times, and some close on Sundays. Check before walking far.
You can pay for the bus and metro with a phone if you set up a mobile T-money card, but the plastic card works everywhere and is simpler.
When crossing the road, pay attention to the traffic light and the turning cars; unlike some places, the signal is for pedestrians, not a suggestion.

Questions

How many days is enough for Seoul?: Four full days covers the central palaces, the markets, Gangnam and a day trip. With five days you can add Bukhansan mountain or the DMZ. Longer stays run out of obvious sights unless you slow down and take Korean classes or drive.
Is Seoul expensive?: It is cheaper than Tokyo, London or New York, but not cheap. Public transport is very cheap, street food is cheap, and a sit-down meal costs 8,000-15,000 won, which is about $6-11. Hotels and western-style restaurants cost more.
Is Seoul walkable?: The historic centre is walkable, with most sights within a 30-40 minute walk. The wider city is too spread out and hilly, so use the metro. A full day of walking can be exhausting in summer heat or winter cold.
Do people speak English in Seoul?: English is common in tourist areas and among younger people, and all metro signs and major menus are bilingual. Outside those areas, English drops quickly. A translation app on your phone is more useful than a phrasebook.
Is Seoul safe at night?: It is one of the safest big cities in the world at night. Police are visible, and street crime is low. The main issues are crowded bars, drunk people and busy roads, so use common sense.
Is Seoul worth it in winter?: Yes, if you are dressed for it. Cold, clear days make the palaces and cafes feel cosier, and winter is the cheapest time to visit. The disadvantages are short daylight hours and occasional air-quality warnings.