Singapore, Singapore

When to go

Year-round heat

The equator sits one degree away, so the mercury stays between 27 and 32 degrees Celsius all year. Humidity makes it feel hotter. Rain appears in sudden, heavy showers, often in the afternoon. A compact umbrella is essential.

November to January

The northeast monsoon dumps the most rain, with December the worst. It is also school holiday and festive season, so hotel prices spike and popular spots get crowded. If you dislike rain, this is the season to avoid.

February to April

The driest stretch of the year and the best balance of weather and crowds. Temperatures stay high but showers are shorter and less frequent. The city is busy with Chinese New Year in February, so book ahead.

May to July

The southwest monsoon brings hot, sunny days. The Great Singapore Sale runs from May to July, so malls are packed. Regional forest fires occasionally produce a poor-air haze if the winds align.

August to October

Rain climbs again toward November. National Day on August 9th brings crowds and fireworks. September is quiet and still pleasant. October is a decent shoulder month.

Getting your bearings

The heart of the city is the Singapore River, which flows south through the central business district then opens into Marina Bay. To the north of the river lie the colonial district, Orchard Road, and further north, Little India. South and west of the river sit Chinatown, Tiong Bahru, and then the rest of the island. The airport is far east, about 20 km from the centre. The central zones, from Marina Bay to Orchard Road, are within a 30-minute walk of each other, though the humidity makes the MRT the more practical choice.

Getting around

The Mass Rapid Transit, known as the MRT, is the backbone. You can tap a contactless bank card or a stored-value EZ-Link card at the fare gate. A typical single ride costs S$1.10 to S$2.50 depending on distance. Buses fill the gaps and use the same card. Walking is fine for a single stop, but the heat and sun push most people underground. Taxis are metered and ride-hailing apps are widespread; both cost several times the train.

Where to stay

Marina Bay

The waterfront centre with the Marina Bay Sands hotel, the Merlion, and the Gardens by the Bay. It is all tourists, skyscrapers and light shows. Staying here puts you close to the big sights but far from everyday Singapore, and rooms are pricey.

Orchard Road

A long valley of malls stretching for over two kilometres. Every international brand appears along the street, and it is busy from morning to night. The area is central, convenient, and holds a lot of the city's hotel stock, from budget to very expensive.

Chinatown

A living heritage district on the south side of the river. Hokkien and Cantonese shophouses hold temples, wet markets, bars and food stalls. It carries character and history, with most sights walkable in a day. Stay here for the food and the street life, not for silence.

Little India

South Asian Singapore at its most intense: silk, spices, gold jewellery and music spilling out of every doorway. It is loud and colourful and smells of curry and jasmine. Accommodation is mostly budget guesthouses and mid-range hotels.

Kampong Gelam

The old Malay quarter between Bugis and Arab Street. Narrow lanes fill with textile shops, Middle Eastern cafés and boutique hostels. It is the most chilled area of the inner city and the best place for a low-key stay near the centre.

A day here

A day of hawker food, green space and the bay

1. Maxwell Food CentreStart as the stalls open around 8am and order chicken rice or kaya toast with coffee. It is under a five-minute walk from Chinatown MRT. A filling breakfast costs S$4-6. It gets crowded by 11am.
2. Buddha Tooth Relic TempleHead into Chinatown and climb through this elaborate temple built in 2002. It is free and quiet in the morning. The rooftop garden and the relics on the fourth floor take about 40 minutes.
3. Singapore Botanic GardensTake the MRT to Botanic Gardens station and enter this free, 80-hectare park. The tropical rainforest and lakes are a genuine escape from the city. The National Orchid Garden inside charges S$5. Plan for two hours, and come before the sun peaks.
4. Orchard RoadRide the MRT to Orchard and walk a stretch of the mall-lined street. It is less about buying and more about air-conditioning and watching people. The cool interior of ION or Ngee Ann City is a strong draw.
5. Lau Pa SatFinish in the central business district at this Victorian-era food hall. In the evening, the adjacent Boon Tat Street closes to traffic and satay stalls grill over charcoal. A dinner of satay and a beer costs around S$20. Busiest between 7pm and 9pm.

Eating

Hainanese chicken rice

The national dish of poached chicken, rice cooked in chicken stock and chilli-ginger sauce. It is cheap, plain-looking, and everywhere. Try it at a hawker stall or a restaurant; a plate costs S$4-10.

Chilli crab

A whole crab in a spicy-sweet tomato and chilli sauce, mopped up with fried mantou buns. Messy and not cheap, usually S$50 per kilo. It is a meal for sharing.

Laksa

A Peranakan coconut curry noodle soup with prawns and cockles. The Katong district claims the best version. A bowl at a hawker centre runs about S$5-7.

Satay

Skewers of grilled meat served with a peanut sauce, cucumber and rice cake. Best eaten in the evening at Lau Pa Sat's street closure, where you pick your stall and wait for charred pieces.

Kaya toast and kopi

The breakfast of toast layered with coconut jam and butter, eaten with sweet coffee from a traditional coffee shop. Find any older eatery around Chinatown or the city; a set meal costs S$3-5.

Hawker centres

Open-air food courts run by the government, with dozens of stalls serving Chinese, Malay and Indian food. They are cheap, hygienic, and the fastest way to taste the city. One dish rarely exceeds S$6.

Peranakan food

A blend of Chinese, Malay and Indonesian cooking. If you want to eat it, look for restaurants in Katong or Joo Chiat, or order a blue glutinous rice dessert called pulut hitam.

Prata

The Indian-style flatbread, crispy outside and flaky inside, served with fish curry. Eaten at all hours, especially late at night. A plain prata costs about S$1.20.

Practical

Money

The Singapore dollar (SGD) is the currency, with about S$1.35 to US$1. ATMs everywhere, and credit cards work at almost all shops and taxis. Hawker stalls and small shops often only take cash, so carry a little.

Transport

The MRT is the safest bet. Fares run S$1.10 to S$2.50 per ride. You can tap a contactless credit card directly at the gates, or buy an EZ-Link card from a station ticket office. One ride on the bus costs the same.

Safety

Singapore is one of the world's safest cities. Street crime is very low, and the police are visible along Orchard and in the Bay area. Lone travellers, including women, routinely walk late at night without trouble. Use normal caution in crowds.

Opening hours

Most shops are open daily from 10am to 10pm. Hawker centres open around 7am and close by 9pm, but some stay later. The MRT runs from roughly 5.30am to midnight. Museums and temples generally open at 9am and shut at 6pm, with many museums closed on Mondays.

Seasons

There is no true cold season. The constant heat and humidity define what you pack and how long you walk. The drier windows are February to April and September to October. The wettest and busiest time is December.

Worth knowing

• Chewing gum cannot be imported, and carrying more than a small personal amount can mean a fine.
• Food centres often clear their tables quickly; put your tray away, or cutlery may disappear.
• The MRT has a strict no-eating and no-drinking rule, and a fine is possible.
• Many buildings use 'air-conditioned' as a promise; keep a lightweight jacket with you.
• On Sundays, Orchard Road is closed to cars and becomes a bicycle and foot street.
• Tipping is not expected; 10% service charge is normally added at restaurants.