Tokyo is a working city of 14 million people that runs on trains and convenience stores. Most of it is low-rise residential neighbourhoods, with a few dense cores of towers and nightlife. The city rewards walking, because the interesting parts are often five minutes from the station.
When to go
- Spring (March–May)
- Cherry blossom peak is early April. Weather is mild but changeable; late March can be cold. Parks become crowded Saturday afternoons. Hotel prices peak in blossom week. The air is clear and the light is sharp. This is the season to pick if you want the classic postcard, with the crowds that come with it.
- Summer (June–August)
- Hot, humid, and rainy. June rains usually ease in early July, then thunderstorms and 35°C days arrive. Fireworks festivals sit on weekends between late July and August. Many locals leave for the mountains or abroad, so late August can be quieter. Hotels are cheaper but air conditioning means indoor life only.
- Autumn (September–November)
- September still carries typhoons and heat into October. Late October and November are dry, cool, and bright. Autumn leaves peak in parks and temple grounds around late November. This is the least crowded, most comfortable season. It is the one to pick.
- Winter (December–February)
- Cold but dry, with lows near 0°C most nights. Few tourists complain about the cold because everything is indoors. Illuminations run through December. January is the quietest, cheapest shopping month. Winter is the budget season; bring a warm coat.
Getting your bearings
Tokyo has no single centre. The loop of the JR Yamanote train line is the fastest way to think about it. Inside the loop are the dense neighbourhoods of Ueno, Kanda, Shinjuku, Shibuya, Harajuku, and Ginza, roughly a 10–20 minute ride from each other. Outside the loop stretch the residential districts that carry most of the city's 14 million people. The busiest cores – Shinjuku, Shibuya, Ginza – are each a collection of department stores, restaurants and stations. A walk from one platform of the Yamanote station to another might take seven minutes, but crossing between them by foot is usually faster than the subway. The Sumida River runs through the east side; the city spreads in flat grid of small streets.
Getting around
People ride trains. The private Tokyo Metro and Toei networks combine with JR lines; all accept the same rechargeable IC card, Suica or Pasmo. Tap in and out, with fares from ¥140–300 depending on distance. A 24-hour unlimited ticket on both metro networks costs around ¥800 and is sold at airports and major stations. For most itineraries an IC card is easier and refundable. Walking is faster for any trip under one kilometre. Buses run but are hard to decipher for first-time visitors. Taxis come when apps are used.
Where to stay
- Shinjuku
- The largest transport hub in the city, with the neon of Kabukicho next to office towers and department stores. Good for eating and drinking; rooms are loud at night but the station puts anywhere within reach. A first-time visitor stays here and then finds it overwhelming.
- Shibuya
- The crossing everyone photographs, but the real value is the deep vertical shopping centres and the alleys around Center-gai that stay packed until late. Good for young crowds, music, and Shibuya Scramble station. Prices slightly lower than Shinjuku for small business hotels.
- Asakusa
- Old Tokyo around the temple, with low buildings, snack stalls, and a working shopping street that opens at 9:00. It is quieter than the west side after 8:00. Best for people who want the historic quarter and don't mind a 15-minute metro ride to the modern cores.
- Ueno
- A park, the zoo, and several national museums in one large block, plus an under-station food market. It is the classic area for mid-range accommodation. Close to the end of the Shinkansen from the north.
- Ginza
- Expensive, office-like, with flagship department stores and some of the most Michelin-starred kitchens in the world. Quiet on weekends. Best for serious shopping and late dinners at counter seats.
- Akihabara
- Once the electronics and anime land, still full of arcades and maid cafés. Cheap hotels; the station is on the loop. Nearby Kanda has classic cheap izakayas.
A day here
From Asakusa to Tsukiji by river
- Senso-ji TempleThe grounds are open from early morning. Go before 9:00, when tour groups arrive, to see the Kaminarimon gate and main hall without pushing. Free; 30–45 minutes.
- Kappabashi-doriA six-minute walk from Senso-ji. Kitchen-supply shops sell knives, paper lanterns, and plastic food models. Most shops open at 10:00. Budget an hour; entrance is free.
- Tokyo Cruise river busBoard at Asakusa Pier and ride east down the Sumida River to Hamarikyu, about 35 minutes. Tickets cost around ¥1,300. Benches on the upper deck fill early; arrive 15 minutes before departure.
- Hamarikyu GardensA tidal pond and teahouse on the former shogun's hunting ground, 20 minutes from Tsukiji on foot. Entrance is ¥300. Set aside 45 minutes; quiet except at weekends.
- Tsukiji Outer MarketThe wholesale auction moved to Toyosu, but the outer market remains: knife shops, dried fish, and row after row of sushi counters open for lunch. Closed Sundays and some Wednesdays. Eat early, from 11:00; ¥1,500–3,000 for a meal.
Eating
- Sushi
- Tokyo's sushi standard: a few pieces of fish over vinegared rice, served fast at counters in the old Tsukiji area or at conveyor-belt places for less than ¥150 per plate.
- Ramen
- A noodle bowl with soy, miso or pork-bone broth. Most shops sell tickets from vending machines. A bowl costs ¥800–1,200 and arrives in five minutes.
- Monjayaki and okonomiyaki
- Monjayaki is Tokyo's pan-fried batter, sliced into a gooey layer with a spatula; okonomiyaki is thicker. Both grilled at your table. You will smell like the restaurant after.
- Yakitori
- Grilled chicken parts on skewers at cheap standing bars near stations. A set of five and a beer runs ¥1,500.
- Tempura
- Batter-fried seafood and vegetables, eaten hot with grated daikon and dipping sauce. A lunch set in a basement shop costs ¥1,500–3,000.
- Depachika (department-store basements)
- Basements of stores like Isetan and Daimaru sell boxed meals, pickles, and pastries. Great for a park picnic; most make a fresh bento and pack it while you wait.
- Gyudon
- Bowls of simmered beef and onion over rice start around ¥400. The fast-food chains of the dish are everywhere, open late.
Practical
- Money
- Cash is used in small restaurants and bars; big chains and department stores take cards. Visa, Mastercard, and JCB are the safest. ATMs in 7-Eleven and at Japan Post accept foreign cards. Tipping is not expected.
- Transport
- The system of JR, Tokyo Metro, and Toei lines is all covered by a Suica/Pasmo card. Two subway lines run through many areas; you can change between them by tapping. Buses are slow but useful for the southern part of the city. Taxis are unmarked black cars and accept cards; a short ride costs roughly ¥700–1,000.
- Safety
- Pickpocketing is rare. Most people will leave a phone on a table. The real risk is missing the last train, which means a ¥3,000 taxi ride or finding a karaoke bar to wait in. Police stations ('koban') are marked with a red sign and officers can draw you a map.
- Opening hours
- Most museums open at 9:30 and close at 17:00, with last entry 30 minutes earlier. Many are closed Mondays. Department stores open 10:00–20:00. Shops in business districts close by 21:00. Trains run until after midnight. Some restaurants close for a couple of hours between 15:00 and 17:00.
- Seasons
- Four distinct seasons. Spring is cherry blossom and crowds, summer hot and humid, autumn the most comfortable, winter dry and quiet. Early April and late November are the busy peaks. Typhoons can arrive in September and October; check forecasts.
Worth knowing
- Your hotel can write the name of a destination in Japanese to show a taxi driver.
- Coin lockers at stations hold luggage for a day; most are gone by mid-morning at major stations.
- Many washlet toilets have buttons labelled in Japanese; the large button is usually for the spray.
- Asakusa and Ueno shop streets close one day a week; check before planning a Monday visit.
- Museums close at different days; Thursday is the safest day for a museum-heavy itinerary.
Questions
- How many days should I spend in Tokyo?
- Four days is the minimum for a first visit: one for old Asakusa, one for Shinjuku and Shibuya, one for museums in Ueno, and one day for a side trip. Six days allows more depth.
- Is Tokyo expensive?
- A bowl of ramen costs ¥800–1,200 and a metro ride ¥200–300. Hotels and sushi cost more. A mid-range budget is about ¥15,000 per day for a room, meals, and transport; ¥25,000 is comfortable.
- Can I get by with English only?
- English is enough for trains, restaurants, and hotels. Signs and many menus are bilingual. At small places, a translation app fills the gap.
- Is Tokyo safe at night?
- It is as safe as anywhere on earth. Being out late on the loop line is normal. As in any big city, avoid stumbling drunk in Kabukicho and follow the stations' last-train times.
- Is it worth visiting in winter?
- Winter is worth it for cheaper rooms and the same food scene. Days are short, so plan indoor mornings. January and February are cold with clear air and little rain.
- What area should I stay in?
- Shinjuku and Shibuya put you in the middle of the city, which suits most people. Asakusa gives a quieter, older base. Ginza suits long expense-account dinners. The choice matters less than proximity to a Yamanote station.
- Do I need the Japan Rail Pass for Tokyo?
- The pass is priced for cross-country travel; the price was raised in 2023. If you stay inside Tokyo, the pass rarely pays off. Suica and Pasmo cover all local travel.
- Is Tokyo walkable?
- For short stretches yes; the districts are compact. But it is not a walking city in one go – you take the train between neighbourhoods. Within a neighbourhood you will cover most ground on foot.